DIY Cabled Slouch Beanie – Free Pattern

After knitting a few beanies from patterns I’ve found online (mostly on Ravelry), I decided it was time to start making beanies from my own patterns. I can never find exactly what I want on Ravelry so it seemed like a good idea.

I used a few generic cable patterns from knitting stitch books and I was able to create my own pattern of a long slouch beanie. I made one for a friend who is overseas at the moment and she loved it! So I decided to make one for myself that was slightly different and recorded my steps.

Β Tools:

  • 4mm Circular Needle
  • 4mm Double Pointed Needles
  • 8ply yarn (3-4 balls)

Pattern:

PDF VERSION:Β SLOUCH CABLE BEANIE – 2015

 

BODY

Cast on 132 stitches – using.3.25mm circular needles
Row 1 K2, P2
Repeat for 8 rows
Transfer work to 4mm circular needles
Row 10 P2, K12, P4, K4 [P1, K1] 3 times, K3, P2 (33 stitches to one panel)
Row 11 P2, K12, P4, K3, [P1, K1] 4 times, K2, P2
Repeat last two rows
Row 14 P2, C12B, P4, C6F, K1, C6B, P2
Row 15 P2, K12, P4, , K13, P2
Repeat last row 6 times
Row 22 P2, C12B, P4, C6B, K1, C6F, P2
Row 23 As row 11
Row 24 As row 10
Row 25 As row 11
Repeat pattern 4 times.

 

CROWNΒ 

Row 1 P2, K12, P4, K2, K2TOG, [P1, K1] TWICE, P1, K2TOG, K2, P2
Decrease from 33 to 31 stitches (per panel)
Row 2 P2., K12, P4, K4, [P1, K1] TWICE, K3, P2
31 stitches (per panel)
Row 3 P2, K12, P4, K1, K2TOG, [P1, K1] TWICE, K2TOG, K2, P2
Decrease from 31 to 29 stitches (per panel)
Row 4 P2, K12, P4, K3, [P1, K1] TWICE, K2, P2
29 stitches (per panel)
Row 5 P2, C12B, P1, P2TOG, P1, K3, [P1, K1] TWICE, K2, P2TOG
Decrease from 29 to 27 stitches (per panel)
Row 6 P2, K12, P3, K3, [K1, P1] TWICE, K2, P1
27 stitches (per panel)
Row 7 P2, K2TOG, K8, K2TOG, P3, K2, K2TOG, K1, K2TOG, K2, P1
Decrease from 27 to 23 stitches (per panel)
Row 8 P2, K10, P3, K3, P1, K3, P1
23 stitches (per panel)
Row 9 P2TOG, K2TOG, K6, K2TOG, P1, P2TOG, K7, P1
Decrease from 23 to 19 stitches (per panel)
Row 10 P1, K8, P2, K7, P1
19 stitches (per panel)
Row 11 P1, K2TOG, K4, K2TOG, P2, K1, K2TOG, K1, K2TOG, K1, P1
Decrease from 19 to 15 stitches (per panel)
Row 12 P1, K6, P2, K5, P1
15 stitches (per panel)
Row 13 P1, K2TOG, K2, K2TOG, P2, K5, P1
Decrease from 15 to 13 stitches (per panel)
Row 14 P1, K4, P2, K5, P1
13 stitches (per panel)
Row 15 P1, K1, K2TOG, K1, P2TOG, K2TOG, K1, K2TOG, P2TOG
Decrease from 13 to 8 stitches (per panel)
Row 16 [K3, P1] TO END
32 stitches overall
Row 17 [K2TOG,K1, P1] TO END
24 stitches overall
Row 18 [K2TOG, P1] TO END
16 stitches overall
Row 19 [K2TOG] TO END
8 stitches overall

TIE OFF. WEAVE IN ENDS. ADD POM POM.

 

If you would like a slouchier effect, you should:

1. Dip the entire finished beanie (without pom poms) in cold water so that every bit is wet.

2. Wring out as much water as you can without fluffing or felting the beanie. (It doesn’t have to have every bit of water rung out, but make sure it isn’t soaking wet)

3. Place the beanie over a large plate around the size you would like it to be. (I would usually use a 10″ to 12″ (25cm to 30cm) diameter plate)

4. Let it dry overnight and it should reshape into a more mushroom like form that will create an extra slouchy effect!

This can be done with the pom pom attached, but be sure to only wet the beanie and not the pom poms, it will make your life much easier.

Pom Pom:

For a good pom pom template and more detailed instructions on how to create pom poms go to Mias Craft Ideas

This project is also on my Ravelry page.

If you have any queries, I’m more than happy to help you out πŸ™‚

LOve <3

PQP

 

NOTE: This post was amended on 30th December 2013 to revise discrepancies in the pattern.

34 Replies to “DIY Cabled Slouch Beanie – Free Pattern”

    1. Thank you!
      Maybe I’ll post a few knitting tutorials to help you out! If you keep trying you’ll eventually get it πŸ™‚
      xx

  1. Hey, I love the hat! Slouchy and cables, perfect. I was wondering what do c12b, c6f and c6b mean? Do I move 12 to the cable needle in the back, purl the next 4 and then knit the 12 or how does it work? Thanks for the pattern, I’d love to make one!

    1. No problem, I’m glad you like it!

      c12b – hold 6 stitches back on a cable needle, knit next 6, knit stitches on the cable needle
      c6b – hold 3 stitches to the back on a cable needle, knit next 3, knit stitches on the cable needle
      c6f – hold 3 stitches to the front on a cable needle, knit next 3, knit stitches on the the cable needle.

      I hope that helps. If you have any other questions feel free to ask πŸ™‚
      xx

      1. Thank you so much! That cleared it. I’m more used to crocheting, so knitting is a bit of a mystery to me. πŸ™‚ I’m trying it as soon as I get some yarn!

        1. Haha, I’m a little bit of the reverse, crocheting is still relatively new to me.
          Hopefully I will be posting up some how-to knitting videos or pictures soon to lend a hand with the beanie making πŸ˜‰
          If you run into any problems along the way, I’m happy to help you out. Let me know how the beanie turns out. I’m excited to see someone else try out my pattern! πŸ™‚

  2. Cool beanie! πŸ˜€
    Everything is pretty straightforward, but I’m just a little confused about the crown.
    Before decreasing the stitches i.e. rows 1 – 25 from the start, the patterns repeat 4 times within a row in 33 stitches (hopefully this isn’t too confusing… xD)
    But as I start on the crown I realized that the instructions are in 31 stitches, not in 33 anymore. Should I follow the pattern and carry on or should I add another 2 stitches to make up for the missing (?) 2 stitches?

    1. Okay I made this beanie quite a while ago so I may be a little blurry. I THINK it is because the first row of the crown decreases twice, so it would be 31 and not 33. So yes continue with the pattern.

    2. Hi Christine, Someone had recently brought to my attention the same issue you did last year, but I completely confused myself. There is a new pattern up including those extra 2 stitches that you mentioned. So sorry for the confusion!!

    1. This was sized to fit my head which is on the small side. An alternative to adding stitches is dipping it in cold water and reshaping it, this will stretch it out a bit.
      However, if you would like to cast on more stitches, as long as you added enough to create another pattern panel it should work fine.

  3. Hi, I really love this beanie and cant wait to start knitting it! Hopefully it will turn out alright as I haven’t done much knitting before – although my mum is a great knitter so she will be able to help me πŸ™‚ Would it be possible to extend the bottom part so that it could be doubled over/folded up? if so how can I do this and by how many units?

    1. Hi Christine, you can definitely extend the bottom part. I would say knit about 20 rows of the first row. Give of take really depending on how large you want your band to be.

  4. I seem to be having a blonde moment as I work through this pattern. I worked rows 1-9 with no problem. I hit row 10 and I am so confused. Total, you only mention about 30 stitches in both rows 10 & 11. Is there some sort of repeat I am missing?

    1. Oh yea, sorry about that. This was one of the first patterns I’ve ever written so I may have missed out the repeat of the row!
      Repeat the whole row 4 times. I’ve written out 33 stitches in row 10 and there should be 132 stitches throughout the whole row.
      It shoouuldd be the same with all the rows… but if you encounter any other issues, please let me know πŸ™‚

  5. Hi, so I’m new to knitting but I’m trying to make this hat for my sister for Christmas and I have a quick question. About how many yards of yarn did this take? You said 3-4 balls but roughly how much is that?

    1. Hi, so sorry for the late reply.

      This was made quite a while ago so I will do my best to help you out.
      I used an 8ply Cleckheaton for this. According to the Morris and Sons website, each ball is 105 yards. So assuming my previous calculations are correct (hoping that it’s correct), it probably took about 350 yards.
      Keep in mind that this is quite a long hat so I probably used an extra ball than would be necessary for a normal beanie.

      Also FYI, depending on how you wear the hat, it can be slouchy or quite pointy because I didn’t increase any stitches or baste the final result.
      IF you want a slouchier result, I would recommend basting the hat after (which is wetting it and form it with a round object)

      I hope this helped!
      xx

  6. Great pattern just finished making the beanie however the cable 6 st part is different from the beanie you had in the picture and the stitch count for the rows that were being decreased were inaccurate but other than that I’m pleased with how this turned out! πŸ™‚

    1. Thanks Annie!

      Yea sorry about the inaccuracies, I’ve made this beanie like 3 times already and i swear each time I find discrepancies! Still trying to fix it and make the perfect outcome. The first time I did this was perfect though.

    1. Hi Jane,

      Yup that’s right! πŸ™‚ Let me know if you encounter any issues.
      I haven’t tried out the pattern in a while so I can’t confirm that there aren’t any mistakes in there :/
      This is mostly in relation to the crown section though, the body is taken from a pattern book

      Yin
      xx

    1. Yay! um… yea I think it will look pretty weird. It’s only 20 rows though, that’s not too many!

    1. Hi, I’m sorry but I don’t usually look at gauge when I knit because when I use 8ply, it generally just works for beanies and the needle size that I’ve quoted. So I don’t actually know what the gauge is for the yarn that I’ve used.

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