DIY basic Socks (bulky) – FREE sock PATTERN

I finally finished a pair of socks and created a sock pattern! Almost 4 pairs of socks in fact (insert smug face).

Basic bulky sock pattern

I’ve always wanted to make socks, but found it too daunting. Perhaps it was because I didn’t find the right pattern, or perhaps it was just too difficult for me the last time I tried. But, whatever the reason, I have now overcome that hurdle πŸ™‚

I have based this pattern off a few of different ones with adjustments as its not often that a pattern is perfect. This pattern is specifically for smaller adult feet (possibly for a large child or teenager), because I have tiny feet. However, It can be adjusted to larger sizes by adding extra stitches (4 or 8 at a time) and creating a longer foot body while modifying the decrease.

I have not yet made these adjustments or test them out, so I cannot vouch for other sizing.

But then again, if you’re not using the exact yarn, sizing is always a bit confusing, especially with wispy bulky yarn.

BASIC SOCK PATTERN (BULKY YARN)

SIZE EU 35-37 / US 4-6

Materials

  • bulky yarn – approx. 2 balls of 50g, 50m
  • 8mm/9mm double pointed needles. (This can also be done with 9mm needles, the socks will just be a tiny by looser)
  • Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Details of the specific yarn I used:

  • Brand – β€œDROPS”                           
  • Syle – β€œESKIMO/SNOW”               
  • 100% wool, BULKY
  • Tension – 10st x 14 rows = 10x10cm                       
  • Recommended needles – 9mm.
  • I have made these socks with both 9mm and 8mm and I prefer the tension from the 8mm needles.

Legend

  • K – knit
  • P – purl
  • SL – slip
  • SSK – slip slip knit (decrease)
  • K2TOG – knit two together (decrease)

CAST ON

20 stitches – long tail method

PART 1: BINDING – colour A

K1, P1 – 5 rows

You can choose to make this longer or shorter.

PART 2: BODY – colour B

K – 15 rows

You can choose to make this longer or shorter.

PART 3: HEEL AND HEEL TURN

Divide, set up the heel and top of the foot:

  • Divide stitches evenly onto 2 needles. 10 st and 10 st
  • Just slip the stitches onto your desired needle/holder.
  • The first 10 st will be the top of the foot. The last 10 st will be the heel.

Knit The first 10 st in colour B (continuing from the body). Then leave it for now.

  • You do not need to cut this as you can continue from this point later on.

Heel – colour A

Start with the right side facing you, i.e. knit row. Work on the last 10 stitches in colour A for the heel and heel turn.

  1. (K1, SL) repeat to the last stitch, SL the last stitch as if the purl (yarn tail on your side), turn.
  2. K1, P to the last stitch, SL the last stitch, turn.

Repeat these 2 row 3 times, making 6 rows in total.

Heel turn (decrease) – colour A

Decreasing by 6 stitches (10 down to 4)

  1. K5, k2tog, k1  (2 left on left needle)
  2. P2, p2tog, p1 (2 left on left needle)
  3. K3, k2tog, k1
  4. P4, p2tog, p1
  5. K4, k2tog
  6. P3, p2tog

You should be left with 4 stitches on the needle.

PART 4: GUSSET (decrease and merge into body) – colour B

You should be able to continue from where you left off after knitting the 18 stitches of the top of the foot. This will be the start of your new round until the end.

Pick up the 6 stitches on each side of the heel. If you have 5 needles, you will be able to form a square. If you only have 4 needles, you can divide the heel up into 2.

Assuming that you have 4 needles, you should have 10 stitches on one needle for the top of the foot (these will be the end of the row), and 8 stitches on each of the remaining 2 needles. 6 stitches from one side of the heel and 2 stitches (half of the heel) from the heel on each of the remaining 2 needles.

You can start your row from the side of the heel (into the first 6 stitches on the side of the heel).

Starting with 24 stitches.

10 from the top of the foot, 6 from each side of the heel and 4 from the heel. 10+6+6+4 = 26.

  1. SSK, K12, K2TOG, K10 (end with 24 st.)
  2. K
  3. SSK, K10, K2TOG, K10 (end with 22 st.)
  4. K
  5. SSK, K8, K2TOG, K10 (end with 20 st.)
  6. K

PART 5: FOOT BODY – colour B and colour A

K – 18 rows (last row in colour A)

This is adjusted for the length of my foot and the yarn I’m using. But you can adjust this length to your foot size. I use 16 rows when using 9mm needles and 18 rows when using 8mm needles.

I do not usually use markers, so I like to count my rows from the heel. It should be 24 rows from the heel right before the toe decrease.

PART 6: TOE DECREASE

  1. K1, SSK, K4, K2TOG, K2, SSK, K4, KTOG, K1 (end with 16 stitches)
  2. K
  3. K1, SSK, K2, K2TOG, K2, SSK, K2, KTOG, K1 (end with 12 stitches)
  4. K
  5. K1, SSK, K2TOG, K2, SSK, KTOG, K1 (end with 8 stitches)

Through the tail and finish off.

And that’s the sock pattern!

I have gone through this pattern a few times, so I am hoping that I’ve ironed out the kinks. If not, feel free to email me and let me know! Otherise, happy knitting!

I also have other patterns, mainly for beanies. Check them out either by browsing the rest of the site or on my Ravelry account.

Yin